Eight things we learned from Travel Geeks: Beers, bears & beyond in Estonia
On 12 October, a National Geographic Traveller (UK) Travel Geeks event sponsored by Visit Estonia saw a panel of experts come together to discuss how best to explore this Baltic nation. APL Media editorial manager Jo Fletcher-Cross was joined by travel experts Jamie Lafferty, Jaan Laur, Kristjan Peäske, and Peep Rooks. Here are eight things we learned:
1 Estonia has a fascinating history
“Having been taken over by so many countries, including Sweden, Denmark, Russia and Germany, Estonia is a fascinating hybrid of East and West Europe,” explained Kristjan. “We’ve been able to absorb the best of all those cultures while still remaining Estonian — which is something quite unique.” Jaan added that Estonians, typically modest, reserved and polite people, are delighted that the country is finally gaining the positive recognition it deserves in the foreign press.
2 Explore its thriving culinary scene…
With a wealth of fantastic natural produce, both on land and in the sea, Estonia is experiencing a culinary revival. “There are many fantastic restaurants worth exploring in the capital of Tallinn,” said Kristjan. “Head to Noa, a fine dining restaurant, or 180 Degrees, run by German chef Matthias Diether, for fantastic Michelin-starred food. Or for a cheaper, more sustainable option, visit Fotografiska where you can enjoy unparalleled rooftop views of Tallinn Old Town.”
3 … or forage for wild food
Salting, curing, fermenting and foraging are all important parts in Estonian cuisine and there are many restaurants that specialise in wild foods. Kristjan explained that, from Tallinn, you can get out into the countryside to take a guided foraging tour. Jaan added that traditional Estonian foraging is based on an old Norwegian concept that every man has the right to go into the forest and take what he can find, as long they respect the land and leave wildlife unharmed.
4 Treat yourself to a tipple
Estonia’s craft beer scene has exploded in recent years, with many micro-breweries now offering guided tasting tours to educate visitors about the traditional production process and local beer culture. Jamie said that the variety of beers on offer at Põhjala Tap Room, Tallinn was “dizzying”, featuring both their own products as well as selected guest beers. Põhjala Brewery also organises The Tallinn Craft Beer Weekend, which brings together over 200 beers from more than a dozen countries to create a beer-lover’s paradise. “Numbers of small-batch whisky distilleries have recently risen too, and we even have our own Estonian wine trail, which is a great way to dot around the country,” added Kristjan. Estonia is also renowned for producing high-quality artisanal gins; there are now 10 Estonian gins to try, many of which are served in Tallinn’s restaurants.
5 Soak in an Estonian smoke sauna
According to Jan, you can’t return home without having tried the great Estonian smoke sauna. “Picture a sauna that’s heated with wood, but doesn’t have a chimney, therefore all the smoke stays inside the room for four to five hours, making the sauna incredibly hot; half an hour before you step inside, the windows are opened to let the steam out,” he said. “I’ve been in one many times, but it still blows me away — it’s a different kind of heat and you can still smell this slight aroma of smoke on your skin many days later.”
6 Hike through its misty bogs and mires
Bogs cover a fifth of the mainland area in Estonia and are portrayed as places of mystery and peace in Estonian folklore. “It’s a really unusual environment,” said Jamie. “It’s this vast swathe of acidic land that doesn’t really support trees; as soon as the pH level changes, the trees just stop growing at the edges of the bogs. This reminded me of a scene in the second film of The Lord of the Rings where the trees are stood in a row looking out onto the barren land in front of them. It’s incredibly peaceful and serene, though, and there are plenty of pools in the centre if you want to have a wild, rather Baltic, swim!”
7 Go island-hopping
Estonia’s many islands offer an enormous amount of charm and ancient history away from its bustling cities, with the most popular Estonian islands being Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, Ruhnu and Vormsi. “There’s one very special island, Kihnu, that’s an absolute must-visit,” said Jaan. “The community’s culture has been enshrined in UNESCO’s list of Masterpieces of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity due to its largely female-led society and its songs, dances, and colourful handicrafts.”
8 It’s beautiful year-round
“My favourite times to visit Estonia are from April until mid-June, and then September to October,” said Peep. “Spring or autumn is in the air and there are fewer tourists.” However, winter in Estonia also makes for a magical escape. As Jaan explained, the Christmas market in Tallinn — where the very first Christmas tree was decorated —has repeatedly been voted as one of the best in Europe.
Watch the full discussion on the National Geographic Traveller (UK) YouTube page.
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